Originally posted by fred rosenberger:
1 in 10? really? that sounds high, doesn't it?
Yeah - horribly high. Though I've never been to Everest myself I have climbed with a good few people who have been there, including some who have guided on Everest. There was a simmilar theme from all of them about why so many die: too many people are too determined to turn back when things look dodgy. One guy told me there is a rule guides are supposed to follow: you set your plan for the accent in stone and don't deviate one iota (unless your change is to give the climb up). This is particularaly important when the altitude makes informed decision making pretty much an impossibility. Too many people have spent too much money and invested too much time in training to contemplate giving up even when the odds look staked strongly against them.
Anyone going up though, apparently still had confidence they were safe enough to continue, and chose to put getting to the top over saving another climber. Or so it seems to me, anyway
Me too. Its the same mindset that gets climbers in trouble though - climbers are too focused on their goal to remember that doing the humane/prudent thing is far more important. After the '96 disaster a story surfaced where a Japanese team had passed a (they thought) dying climber on the way up, making the judgement that he was beyound help. They could have used their spare oxygen and manpower to carry him off the hill and he might have survived. Instead they carried on for the summit. On their way back down (two days later) the man was still alive, though probably by then genuinely beyond saving. A nasty story, but unfortunately not a one-off.
[ May 25, 2006: Message edited by: Paul Sturrock ]